The Bottom of Discontent

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We were traveling to New Orleans to attend the Jazz Festival. The day before we left, I was flying around in a panic as I finalized the church newsletter, readied the house for our absence and shuttled Sam off to the sitter’s—missing the precious boy the minute I drove away. As our group of six settled into our seats on the plane, I wondered what percentage of my life was spent in temperature-controlled tubes. 

I journaled most of the trip south, admitting in writing that I’d fallen completely in love with the mountain house, which was becoming hidden from the road as the woods dressed in shiny green—the lushness making me feel poignant about missing a minute of the ever-changing beauty. It seemed the only place I was ever able to relax was the screened porch with its “eye” on nature—her cooling breezes accompanied by an elemental soundtrack that included the splash of the waterfall and birdsong. But leave we always did and when we arrived at the fairgrounds in New Orleans, the festival was vibrating with so many types of music that the percussions shook the ground, a feeling akin to the earth having an oddly rhythmic form of palsy. The tents spreading out as far as I could see held gospel, blues, reggae, calypso, contemporary jazz, big band, Cajun, Zydeco and other genres of music I’d never known existed. The mass of people flowing through the grounds created a psychedelic ocean of color that not even Jackson Pollack would have thought to splash on the same canvas. I felt as if I were floating through a kaleidoscope of sound, hues and aromas.

The food ranged from barbecued alligator and crawfish étouffée to oyster poboys, and of course, beignets, which were brought to the festival by the famed Café du Monde. The aroma of barbecue was tantalizing as it floated above the row of food booths, battling it out with the smell of hot grease emanating from the proliferation of deep-fat fryers. Drinks were almost as varied as the dishes served—wine, beer and Bloody Mary’s tempting at every turn. I reached a point at which I declared I had to stop putting things in my mouth because the run I’d taken that morning was becoming a token effort given the excess of food and liquor I was consuming. There were so many outlandishly dressed people that my brain couldn’t fully process the scene as I scanned the crowd, trying my best to remember details that would color the backdrop of any story or poem I might write about the experience. My favorite fair-goers were the ones who stood as close as they could to the stage and swayed their bodies with the music—eyes closed as if they were making love to the rhythms. 

One such guy was dancing in the grass by a steel police barricade that protected the acts on the stage from the public. He was moving to the music of the Bluebirds—his skinny hips gyrating in shiny tight leotards. His scrunched socks were pillowed neatly above his Reeboks, which shifted on the grass as he flexed his knees to coincide with the whine of the guitar and the pulsing drums. His tan was obviously hard won and he would monitor it as he went along, shifting a sleeve farther up his arm when he sensed the beginning of a tan line or adjusting his shirt at the neckline as he spritzed himself with a spray bottle he kept at the ready in the beaten-down grass next to a bright blue towel he used to keep the sweat from his eyes. His hair was the color of cinnamon sticks and was clipped short except for a skinny braid that flicked around on his thin brown neck. His head was the liveliest part of his body—it shot to and fro as his arms stayed glued to his sides. Watching his thin butt vibrate to the grinding of the blues made me chuckle, and I was irritated that Jim and the gang were determined to move me along because I could have watched him for hours as I absorbed details that might have explained a bit more about how he lived his life away from the gregarious activity he was enjoying so keenly.

As I sat in the hotel room the next day watching the ships coming and going, I pondered how life kept me tossed about, supposing it would for a while no matter how much I hoped for a better balance. I was grateful for experiences like the jazz festival but I wanted so keenly to be able to be still and write. It was almost comical how many people asked me, “What problems could you possibly have?” I couldn’t explain even to myself why I considered it to be an insult except that it brought about waves of guilt to think about how well off we were materially and how unhappy I could be at times. I guessed people believed this because for most of them, their nemesis had always been a lack of money. Even in moments when I doubted I had a “right” to my grumblings, there was one valid point at the bottom of my discontent and for this I wanted to give myself the acceptance to continue my search. I was extremely happy when I was bettering myself intellectually and creatively. In fact, doing so helped me to relax into a part of myself that was calm and loving. Therefore, I believed my desperation for betterment and for creative time was a valid one; not merely a phantom of psychological dis-ease. The bottom line, though, was that time for neither of these treasured things would fit into my life as it was, and my creative flow was drying up under the pressure of relational issues.

Knowing the spiral that took place when these subjects were uppermost in my mind, I decided that sitting and mulling them over would only push me into a darker place so I decided to take a walk. I headed to Jackson Square where I saw one of the most curious specimens of humanity I’d ever come across. It was a man who must have spent hours in front of a mirror putting on makeup and wrapping himself in rags. He had glued small tusks into his mouth, which pointed up into his painted, tortured expression. His eyes had been a lively shade of green before the bleeding of red had overcome them. He was a study in torn cloth, string and burlap—all smudged with dirt except around his shoulders where he’d fashioned the “costume” into a cape of sorts. At first, I couldn’t tell whether his skin was black or just so dirty that it appeared to be black. 

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His hairline answered the question, proving that he’d used dark body paint or some such substance to color his face because it had seeped into the hair framing his forehead. Were the blond and red goatees real or were they applied with glue as they extended from the bottom of a patch of white he’d painted to frame lips bulging with tusks? I wondered, standing completely absorbed as he slowly crawled toward a cigarette butt that someone had flipped onto the sidewalk. He extended his hand toward it in slow motion, picked it up with fingers slightly hidden by torn rags and raised it to his nose. He sniffed it like an animal would investigate something before eating it and then rolled it around in his fingers. I felt shy snapping photos of the man but the interest didn’t phase him—he must have wanted the attention given the trouble he’d taken to draw a crowd in a busy square.

Afterwards, I sat in a café recording my impressions of him, curious as to what type of person would think that doing what he was doing was fun. There had to be some thrill in it or he certainly wouldn’t have gone to so much trouble! I wondered what his mother would have said if she’d seen him in his get-up. Were there hints of his bizarre personality in his childhood? I questioned. Or was he perhaps merely a frustrated actor getting his kicks on a spring weekend? My musing made me think of a radio program I’d heard the week before during which Alex Haley said American family values were disappearing. While I listened intently to the interview with the famed author, I marveled at how he made me feel as if I were sitting on the back porch with him as he talked about his aunts, great aunts and grandmothers. He charged every person to interview his or her parents and grandparents because the current generation would be the first to not know who they were in terms of family if they did not. “Go and hug your grandparents,” he commanded. “Say thank you to them because it is from them that you received your life.” 

I wondered about the swaddled man in Jackson Square. Did he stay in touch with his grandmother; was she still alive? Did his mother “get him”; was his father kind to him or did he see a man who was either insane or practicing his performance art in an embarrassingly bizarre way? Did the savage-looking man crawling along the cement know “who he was”? Did he care? Somehow it seemed to me his unique way of expressing himself was one of the most sane examples of individuality I’d ever witnessed, even while his behavior was about as demented as any I’d ever seen!

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Whatever You Need

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I awoke early feeling hung over thanks to the migraine medicine that had shunted me into sleep. Jim dressed quickly, urging me to get going before he headed down to breakfast. Just as he was closing the door, he reminded me that the Bishop of Costa Rica would arrive at ten o’clock to drive us to Siquirres, as if I needed reminding. The Bishop’s name was Cornelius Wilson, and he was right on time when he strode across the dimly lit lobby toward us, his lavender shirt with its stiff white collar bright in the room flush with drab earth tones.

He greeted us with unabashed pleasure, then reached down to grab one of our L.L. Bean duffle bags, tucking the ornate cross dangling from a thick gold chain around his neck into his shirt pocket. As he lugged the heavy bag to his small pickup, knobby lines of gold scalloped across his chest, swaying to the rhythm of his gait. He looked pretty comfortable in his own skin, and there was a somewhat regal quality about him, hightened by the nubby white hair sprouting on his head. As he held the door open for me, I ducked into the tiny rear seat in the truck with its low-slung camper shell covering the bed.

Being in the back, I was free to study the landscape as the two men talked about Germania, the town in which we would build our first church. The mountain peaks far in the distance favored hunter green velveteen while closer at hand, the fabric unraveled into slopes blanketed with a profusion of foliage so varied it would take hours to name every species. Shacks painted once-bright turquoise, fuchsia and yellow sprouted from the luscious vegetation like ragged flowers that had blossomed too close to the end of summer and had been frost bitten in full bloom. It wasn’t until we reached the outskirts of San Jose to begin a rollercoaster journey through mangled turns mimicking the mountainous terrain that their conversation grew quiet. The cleric was doing his best to avoid the daredevil maneuvers of the drivers heading toward us and it took his full concentration.

I caught myself stamping at the floorboard every so often in the faint hope that a break pedal would rise up so I could slow us down. Not only were busses, jammed to nearly overflowing with people, barreling toward us around curves that were far too knotty for their speed, cars and trucks would whip around us when we approached even the shortest stretch of straightaway. Though it seemed chaotic, there was a rhythm to the zigging and zagging that I would come to call “transportation Tango.”

“We say that driving is one way to prove you have faith in a higher order,” Bishop Wilson teased. “That’s because there is absolutely no order on the roads!” After a long descent, we skidded off the highway into the town of Siquirres. The Bishop slid to a stop in a ring of dirt surrounding the Church of Saint Mary, or Iglesia Santa Maria, where we would have lunch before visiting Germania. The minute they heard the crunch of tires on the dusty ground, the parishioners surged through a side door of the parish hall and dashed toward us across the scrubby yard, all toothy smiles and curiosity.

Father Calvin, the priest of St. Mary’s, reached us first, his face alive with kindness. He put names to the other eager faces that flashed before us. I caught Arlene, Frances, Carmelita and Miss Morgan before the words balled into a jumble in my brain. Frances was a slender woman of West Indian ancestry whose kinky black hair was pulled back with lace. Her expression was perpetually stern unless she was concentrating on a conversation. When she was listening intently, she’d narrow her eyes into a tight squint, which raised the corners of her mouth slightly, turning her face into a droll mask of clownishness. Carmelita, a petite Spanish woman who fussed over everyone, had high cheekbones that gave her a gaunt air in spite of her shapely feminine body and voluminous curly hair, which was lightly speckled with gray.

“We’re so glad you are here,” Frances said in her lilting English. Carmelita, determined not to be outdone, stepped in front of Frances, ever so slightly nudging her aside, and said, “We’re here to give you whatever you need.” A final stiff nod toward her competitor was her way of telling us that she considered herself to be in charge and we should, too.

Arlene was a painfully bashful girl with legs so skinny her knees were as bulbous as burls on a tree trunk. Her fine brown hair hung limply into her eyes and parted around each ear. Jim had told me about the shy girl, who had been confirmed during his first trip to Costa Rica when he had met with the Bishop about building churches. This trip, he’d brought her a cross necklace as a present. She was so happy she had a difficult time holding back her tears. When he asked if she would have her picture taken with him, she nodded yes, but was so timid she could barely smile.

Once everyone had greeted us, Father Calvin hurried us into the rec room of the parish hall where we were served freshly baked empanadas and tiny meat-filled sandwiches called arreglados. Instead of soft drinks, we had a Costa Rican version of Kool-Aid made of sorrel. Frances served us queque, or homemade cake, for dessert. As the women doted on us, I was relieved to find that most of the people spoke English in this part of the country. Everyone in the noisy, sparsely furnished room seemed prone to laughter and appeared to be remarkably genuine.

We were preparing to leave for our visit to the job site in Germania when Arlene walked over to me and extended her closed fist. I put my open hand beneath it and she dropped three cherry lifesavers into my palm—sticky from being closed in her sweaty grasp. I was so touched by her gesture that it was my turn to fight back tears. I sucked on the sweet candy as we drove the eight kilometers to Germania, scolding myself. I was going to have to toughen up or I’d be reduced to blubbering my way through my experiences in the mission field, which would only serve to irritate Jim beyond belief.

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